Masterson's 10 Year Old Straight Rye Whiskey

100% rye from Canada, blended with Colorado-sourced water, and bottled in Sonoma, California — a real oddity. Technically a Canadian whisky, this big rye is named after Old West lawman William "Bat" Masterson — a man who, somehow, has returned from the grave he entered in 1921 in order to put his signature on these bottles. The distillery, 35 Maple Street, is owned by Sonoma's famed Sebastiani family. This is their first foray into whiskey.

The nose is immediately huge, full of caramel, citrus, and wood notes. On the palate, even bigger: Incredibly sweet, and delightfully spicy: Cinnamon and allspice, fresh orange (not peel), with a tinge of something akin to a Moroccan spice blend lacing things up. The finish brings the essence of raisins and a drying touch, but it's a little overwhelming in its sweetness. This kind of sugar isn't something you often see in a rye — particularly a 100% rye — but for the most part it works. A touch more balance would serve this bottle well, but even for a bit of a sugar bomb, it's awfully well made.